"505Turbeaux" (505turbeaux)
10/13/2014 at 11:42 • Filed to: None
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"505Turbeaux" (505turbeaux)
10/13/2014 at 11:42 • Filed to: None | 0
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my girlfriend has one, and I just found out this weekend that she is slightly upside down in it (thought she owned it outright). She has owned it 2 years, and last year to get it through inspection it cost $1500. If I wasn't in the picture this year it would cost that and more. It is a strip show 3.7L laredo without even a sunroof on it and just cracked 100K miles. But here is the list of work to be done for inspection this year. Rear wiper arm stripped out, leaking exhaust (cat back is rotten, needs to be replaced), front right wheel bearing noisy (not inspection issue yet, but too much noise for it to last much longer), and the horn comes on when you use the windshield washer, or sometimes when you put it into drive, so it is disabled. I went to put the relay back in to diagnose, and the horns are dead too. This is all on top of the fact I am not confident of the 3.7l. I replaced 3 05 3.7l in a month on 3 different GC's once upon a time. Are these known to be junk? I need to get her though another 2 years till this POS is paid off without doing major work.
CAR_IS_MI
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 11:55 |
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Rear wiper arm stripped out
Is this really an inspection issue? Seems a bit outlandish to me as it's not a primary device for proper and safe vehicle operation.
I would say check a junk yard for the wheel bearing and horns. The wiring issue is a different story, My mother bought a 99 GC new off the lot and for the 3 years we owned it it was nothing but electrical problems (the reason my father traded it in and stopped buying Jeeps...).
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505Turbeaux
> CAR_IS_MI
10/13/2014 at 11:59 |
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yeah I am hoping it isnt the dreaded front control module that is failing. Can't even get one from a boneyard.
I dont know on those about the wheel bearing, is it just unbolting the hub and the driveshaft on these? In that case I would hit the boneyard. Horns 100% I will get there.
Up until 2 years ago even if you had headlight wipers they had to work to pass inspection. As the owner of many volvo/audi/saab/mercedes this was a constant struggle :) I would usually just take the motor out
nermal
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 12:08 |
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The biggest problem with the 3.7l is sludge buildup in the heads. Change the oil every 5k with good synthetic and you'll be good to go. The oil filter is a total PITA to get to though.
You'll need to change the spark plugs every 30k. DO NOT use expensive fancy platinum lifetime whatever gizmos. Use the OEM copper plugs. If you can't find them, make sure you at least get something cheap and copper. Make sure they are gapped properly as well. I change the air filter and PCV on mine at the same time.
As far as wheel bearings go, I had both fronts done on my Liberty this year. Cost per wheel was $500 @ the dealer or $300 at an independent shop. Don't cheap out and get the Chinese bearings here, get either Mopar or Timken brand.
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CAR_IS_MI
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 12:08 |
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Our 99 had a few wire crimps just fall out (once on an injector... That was fun). I would hope they got that fixed 6 years later but who knows, it could be that simple.
The wheel bearing appears the be the same or similar to the one used on the XJ
Pretty simple (found a few step by steps on Jeep forums verifying this set up)
That's ridiculous. Thats the one thing I do like about NV; there is no safety check at all. We only have SMOG becasue of the gov regulations. I could pull up in a rusty shit box with a milk crate for a seat and as long as my engine runs clean, here's your sticker (we don't use sticker either, all electronic, so no ugly squares in the windows).
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505Turbeaux
> nermal
10/13/2014 at 12:27 |
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oh sweet, I forgot to include in there I am getting a p0300 random misfire. I read about the plugs and meant to change them to see if that had any difference to the misfire. I sprayed the coils in soapy water yesterday to see if they were cracked but no change.
I usually use Bosch Super when copper plugs are called for, any issue you can see with using those?
Also, yeah that filter sucks. She went over by quite a bit on her last change and that worries me (why I did it when doing the starter a few weeks back)
JEM
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 12:41 |
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Step 1: Buy XJ Cherokee for the cost of those repairs
Step 2: Stop driving GC immediately
... wait ...
Step 3: Sell GC immediately when paid off
Step 4: Keep driving XJ.
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505Turbeaux
> JEM
10/13/2014 at 12:46 |
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she had 2 XJ's and loved them both. She regrets getting rid of either of them. That is probably the plan. I told her about yours yesterday funny enough
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505Turbeaux
> CAR_IS_MI
10/13/2014 at 14:04 |
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nice, simple enough then
JGrabowMSt
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 14:27 |
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Is that 3.7L considered a chrysler Pentastar engines, or is it something else?
Before tearing into too much, I would pull all the plugs and take a look down the tube if you can.
Also, being a chrysler product, I would just hunt around and look at all the ground connections you can find, take them off and go over each one with a wire brush. I've seen some weird issues fixed by just cleaning the grounds.
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nermal
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 14:47 |
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I went with the *official* ones, not experience with others, but I do know you need to make sure to go with a copper one, not a platinum or iridium.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
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505Turbeaux
> nermal
10/13/2014 at 14:48 |
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yup, just grabbed some from dealer. Easy enough. Cheap too!
Bad72AMX
> 505Turbeaux
10/13/2014 at 22:55 |
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These WK's were generally pretty stout, though the interiors are pretty cheap. I was a Mopar tech so I have lots of experience with the platform. I'll try to help you out.
Ignore the rear wiper if she's okay with it. I've never seen a state inspection requiring it to function. The wheel bearing isn't too hard to do, but if it rusted into the upright it'll be a bear. The horn issue sounds like the TIPM/FCM, but that's an expensive repair so be damn sure or pay the dealer to diag it. Mopar has remaned available now, so the price is a lot better than it was a few years ago.
The car code is very likely due to the exhaust. I never replaced many Chrysler cats. Then again, I almost never saw rusted OE exhaust either. Where do you live?
The EVAP issue is almost certainly the NVLD pump, if it has one. I'm pretty sure it does. Should be about $40 and 5 minutes to change. It twists into the charcoal canister near the fuel tank. Was a real common issue with non-obvious leak EVAP codes.
The 3.7 had head gasket issues, but they were damn tough otherwise. Can't imagine how 3 blew up in such a short time. The heads take a long time to do, and require a handful of special tools to hold the timing chains, but they usually have a specific cylinder misfire (3&4), nor multiple. I'd try plugs first if I were you. Use only Mopar plugs. Even aftermarket plugs from Champion with the same number aren't the same and can cause misfires.
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505Turbeaux
> Bad72AMX
10/14/2014 at 08:35 |
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thank you very much for the advice.
To answer numerous questions, Maine. Ha yeah state inspection manual lists rear and headlight wipers, if originally equipped, to work. I found a brand new arm for the back for 25 bucks, and I was able to wrangle the knurled metal part that separated off of the arm, so that should be an easy fix. Seafoamed it and put in mopar plugs, so far so good on the CEL, till it picks up the leak. I might be able to reset the light and sneak it through inspection like that.